Worth Visiting: Palo Duro Canyon
Texas is big and full of surprises. I’m constantly finding new places and fun facts about this historic state. One of my favorite facts, is that Texas is home to the second largest canyon in the United States.
Maybe you are like me and never gave much thought to the second largest canyon (or the third and fourth, for that matter). Maybe you just thought of the largest canyon, the astutely named “Grand Canyon,” and concluded your canyon knowledge right there. Hey, it’s a judgement free zone.
But let’s give canyons their moment and assume you did wonder about the second largest canyon in the U.S. You’d discover that this canyon is part of a truly incredible state park located deep in the heart (and panhandle) of Texas. And it is certainly worth visiting.
So pack up your van and hitch the RV, you’re about to get a new destination added to your bucket list: Palo Duro State park.
The Hardwood Canyon
Palo Duro is located in the Texas panhandle in a part of the state where not much exists. That might sound harsh, but visit the area and you’ll find this description to be spot on. Driving from Fort Worth, roadside activity tends to slow considerably after Wichita Falls… and that’s not always a bad thing. You’ll find plenty of scenic miles with nothing but the big Texas sky and an abundance of wind turbines and oil rigs. For Dark Sky enthusiasts, you’re in good hands. But for those craving an H-E-B, well, you might need to schedule a detour.
Our first trip out to Canyon, Texas was during the start of the pandemic. An isolated state park seemed like an ideal getaway when you don’t want to be around people but are literally clawing at the walls to get out of your own house. At the time, we didn’t own an RV so we had to settle for a long drive and hotel stay. This was challenging, especially as we looked for meal options that could fit our hiking schedule. Coffee or off-hour dining options were limited, and while we love Palo Duro, we decided that this park may be best to visit for camping or an RV trip.
We’ve since returned a few times with our camper in tow and found the area to be an oasis for retreating from daily life and celebrating the quiet wonder of nature.
The canyon is, simply put, impressive. It’s impossible to not find some moment of awe in the 120 mile gorge. The state park has a scenic and winding entrance that will take your breath away during daylight and maybe shave a few years off your life driving in the dark.
Across the park, the canyon sprawls anywhere from six miles wide to upwards of 20 miles. There are 16 miles of scenic driving that will take you from the rim to the canyon floor. For those not looking to hit the trails, the drive and scenic rest areas are worth the trip alone.
If you are planning a trip, this is a park where you need to research seasonality. There is a partial park closure during the winter for hunting which eliminates trials and sights like the Big Cave, as well as my favorite campground. In the summer, the park may be fully open but you are also subject to brutal temperatures and the desert landscapes that may not provide much shelter for shade or resting on long hikes.
To get the most out of your trip and the beauty of Palo Duro, know what you want to see and do and let that determine the best time to make your trip.
Best of List
This list reflects my personal preferences and what I like to get out of a camping trip. You can learn more about these preferences here.
Best time to visit: To avoid the summer heat and winter closure, I’d recommend early spring, late fall or early winter. This would allow you to maximize your time outside exploring the canyon and using open-air resources such as grills and fire pits. During these windows, you’ll find numerous trails, including mountain biking and equestrian, with plenty to keep you busy.
If you aren’t afraid of the heat, summer may still be a great time to visit. Unique to this season, visitors can enjoy Texas the musical. This famous outdoor musical not only promises an incredible show, but is also typically linked to a killer barbecue scene. If you go, be sure to purchase tickets in advance and arrive early to get the most out of this truly Texas tradition.
Best trail overall: The Lighthouse trail
The Lighthouse trail is the most popular trail in the park and has definitely earned this honor. It’s an easy 5ish-mile round trip to the park’s most famous natural feature, the Lighthouse, which is a giant hoodoo rock formation. The Lighthouse is visible from a few different points on this trail and the Givens, Spicer, Lowry trail as well. You can even spot it from the Visitor Center at the top of the park but none of these vantage points really capture the scale of this structure. It’s hard to grasp how large and impressive it is until you are standing at its feet.
The Lighthouse trail will take you to the foot of the Lighthouse and from there you can take one of the less refined routes to the top. You will do some scrambling and this may not be suitable for small kids, pets, or anyone will mobility issues. Don’t worry, you can still enjoy a view of the Lighthouse from other parts of the trail but if you have the ability to make the climb to the top, I’d highly recommend it.
Poppy reflects on all she has accomplished at the top of the Lighthouse trail.
Best trail for adventure: Givens, Spicer, Lowery (GSL)
If you are up for a more adventurous route to the Lighthouse, I’d recommend taking the Givens, Spicer, Lowery (GSL) trail which connects to the last mile or so of the Lighthouse trail. More strenuous, this trail adds a few hours to your hike with additional scenic views and access to natural wonders. There is little shade so be sure to pack plenty of water and start early if the temperatures are expected to rise.
Not sure if you can handle the GSL? We once met a leashed cat walking the trail. I’m not exactly sure what that means in terms of trail difficulty, but I think if a cat can make it than you might be up to the challenge, too! Just remember to take your time, wear comfortable socks and shoes, and bring plenty of water. Trust me, however much you thought was needed, you’ll want to double that.
GSL will deliver some of the most incredible views of the canyon walls and rock formations that are not seen on other trails. It’s also has less foot traffic than the Lighthouse trail which will allow you to set you own pace and enjoy the quiet. Just like with the Lighthouse trail, you’ll wind up at the park’s pièce de résistance, the Lighthouse, just with a few more miles and smiles under your belt.
Best trail for unique sights: The Rock Garden Trail
If you are looking for something off the beaten path, I’d recommend the Rock Garden trail which is located towards the far end of the park. It won’t be accessible during the winter hunting closure but is well worth waiting for. The Rock Garden was formed during a mudslide hundreds (thousands? millions?) of years ago. This trail will connect to the Lower Comanche trail or you can take it to the very top of the canyon rim and continue on Rylander Fortress Cliff. I’d recommend the latter so you can capture a panorama of the canyon floor from about 800 feet above. Either way, you’ll enjoy the adventure!
Poppy telling Marc about the rock formation on his right.
Best Campground: Mesquite Loop
While there are plenty of very nice tent camping and RV sites within the park, Mesquite Loop holds the top spot for me because of it’s spacious sites and remote location.
Located at the very far end of the park road, this small loop of 20 sites is nestled between beautiful canyon walls. The sites are large enough for fifth-wheels to park comfortably with plenty of room for private outdoor space. If you get feeling that this is a remote site, that’s because it is: It’ll take you about 30 minutes to get back to the top of the canyon in case you need to get cell signal or talk to a park ranger.
Poppy enjoys sunbathing at her spacious campsite.
Best campsites:
In Mesquite Loop, my preferred campsites are 78, 79, 81, 83, 85, 87, and 88. Each of these backs up to some insane view of the canyon wall or private oasis on the canyon floor. Because the sites are roomy, you’ll have your own little special view during sunrise and sunset that make you feel like you are the only one in the park. And after you experience this, you’ll never stay at another campground.
Another bonus to this site is that it backs up to the Lower Comanche trail so you don’t have to move your vehicle to start a hike. Bathrooms are clean with two showers, heating and air conditioning. Park host is at site 77.
Best option for people who don’t like to camp: Palo Duro Glamping
While a hotel is certainly an option, Palo Duro is home to a few Glamping sites within the park that are sure to keep you cozy while offering all the modern conveniences.
These chic sites run a very reasonable $299 a night and sleep at least six (most have two kings and one full). The tent includes air and heating, rustic furnishings, a covered porch and porch swings. You’ll find a microwave, fridge, coffee maker, gas grill and fire pit (with propane included). And because this deal isn’t good enough, you’ll also find complimentary board games and bikes to use during your stay.
When we first came, we desperately wanted to stay in these sites but they did not allow pets. Well, baby, good news: You can now bring up to two pets! Secure your spot now at Palo Duro Glamping.
Photo credit: Palo Duro Glamping
Other tips for enjoying Palo Duro State Park
Flash your pass. Your Texas State Park pass will get you free entrance into the park for you and a car full of friends. It will also get you a nice discount when reserving a campsite and even 10 percent off at the park stores!
Keep your pet on a leash. Palo Duro, like most Texas state parks, is pet friendly but keep in mind wild animals will roam onto your site so it really is best to keep your pooch on a leash at all times even if the site is big enough to let them wander.
If you need something, hit the park store. This place is massive and has a great selection of camp essentials as well as a nice little restaurant with really tasty fries (and as a french fry aficionado, this is quite the compliment).
Check the warnings and alerts before you come. In addition to hunting closures, the park regularly experiences burn bans which means you can only use gas-fueled grills or heating equipment. Pro tip: If you don’t have a gas stove or fire pit, you can rent one from the park store. See, I told you that store was good!
If camping isn’t for you, give glamping a try. Sleeping on the floor isn’t for everyone, so why not try one of the park's best kept secrets: a fully loaded glamping site.